Erdene Zuu (monastery) + Karakorum (ancient capital)

in 1220, Chinggis Khaan decided to install the capital at Karakorum (today's Kharkhorin, 373km away from today's UB), where the capital remained for around 40 years before his son Kublai Khaan decided to move the capital to today's bejing (then-Khanbalik) in china. permanent structures were only erected after Chinggis' death by his son ögedei Khaan. Following the move to bejing and the subsequent collapse of the mongol empire, Karakorum was abandoned and then destroyed by vengeful manchurian soldiers in 1388. whatever was left of Karakorum was used to help build Erdene Zuu Khiid.

today almost nothing remains of the capital of the mongol empire of the 18th century (the foundations of its buildings are all underground), despite excavations for several years now. it's interesting to note that the ancient Karakorum was open to all religions, since it had 12 buddhist monasteries, 2 mosques and 1 church.

the place nonetheless attracts many visitors, for its important Erdene Zuu monastery, which was the first place of buddhist cult constructed in mongolia in the 16th century on the ruins of the city of the 13th century.

there are also some voices calling for a transfer of the capital back to today's Kharkhorin between 2020 and 2030 to echo the 800th anniversary of Chinggis' transfer of the mongol capital from 1220 to 1236.

(Astana in Kazakhstan revisited?)

the construction of Erdene Zuu monastery ("hundred treasures") commenced in 1586. more than 62 big temples existed in 1872, with an even more increasing number (up to 100 temples and about 300 gers) until the beginning of the 20th century. like Karakorum, the monastery was abandoned and then vandalised by invading manchurians. attempts at restoration were made in about 1760 and again in 1808 under the direction of the famous architect Manzushir. in the stalinist purges of the 1930s, it was destroyed almost in its entirety (all but three of the temples - dedicated to the three stages of buddha's life). a surprising number of statues, tsam masks and thangkas (religious scrollings) were saved from the monastery at the time of the purges and either buried in nearby mountains or stored in local homes. the monastery remained closed until 1965 when it was re-opened as a museum (but not as a place of worship). today, though it still retains much of its former glory, it is a shadow of what it once was.

the biggest temple still standing is of typical chinese style, with buildings constructed around a great inner yard. the only still active temple of the complex, in turn, is of typical tibetan architecture. constructed in 1760, it served as residence for the Bogd Khan when he was in Erdene Zuu. the entire complex is now enclosed by a wall with 108 stupas (108 is a sacred number in buddhism). measuring 400 meters on its side, the wall was mounted one century after the original monastery, with construction starting around 1730 and finishing in 1808.

unfortunately, other than the base stones, no traces remain of the impressive ger which had been installed by the great Zanabazar in the very midst of the complex in 1657. called Bat Ulziit, the ger measured 45 meters in diameter and about 15 meters in height and could seat 300 people during the annual assemblies of the local khaans. it required 35 moveable walls and 1700 poles for the roof!