Sunday, 26 August 2007

life in a ger (traditional yurt)

ger is the mongolian word for yurt (which, in turn, is the russian expression), clearly preferred by the locals to designate the typical home of the nomads of central asia. such a ger is a little mini-universe in itself, with strict rules and behavioural codes. it is around 20 square meters big and takes about 1-2 hours to set up.

for example, guests sit to the left of the ger, opposite the head of household and his family. the back of the ger, always oriented towards the north (thus meaning that the door is always oriented towards the south which also gives protection against the mostly northern winds), is reserved for the ancestors (and pictures of the dalai lama and the families most valuable possessions). the two columns in the middle of the ger symbolise the link between the earth and the sky. the kitchen (or, cooking space), on the other hand, is to the south of the ger where the women work and prepare food.

some of the behavioural rules include for example that you should never sit in a way so as your feet point towards another person; take or give food with your left hand (always use either both hands, or your right hand only); always taste everything which you're being offered; etc.

about half of all Mongolians live in a ger, whereas the other half live in russian-style apartment blocks. only since the late 1990s have mongolians started constructing more elaborate western-style homes; most of these are upgraded dachas found outside of UB.


the inside of a ger in a tourist ger camp. the decorations on the woodwork painted in bright orange background is very typical. the top can be open or closed (like here), depending on the wheather.





getting ready to set up another ger.



first, the inside with the furniture etc. is being laid out, before the rest of the ger is then set up. again, you can see the painting decorations on the bright orange background.



the inside of a ger of a family with whom we stayed one night. guessing from the ger and its inside, this family was probably not the poorest one.





this was the north of the ger. again you can see ornated wooden furniture and the khoomi, as well as prices for the horses of the family.





the kitchen with a small petrol cooker, like we had in our camping equipment.

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